<![CDATA[Ectotherm Empire - Care Information]]>Tue, 31 Mar 2026 14:43:30 -0400Weebly<![CDATA[A Size Comparison]]>Sun, 31 Oct 2021 02:09:40 GMThttps://www.ectothermempire.com/care-information/a-size-comparison
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​​As I was prepping for a post in a Facebook group I help admin for primarily novice Hognose Snake Keepers I realized I should probably share this elsewhere.
 Generally, most new keepers do not grasp just how small hognose hatchlings are. Size out of the egg can vary drastically, as can the size of the hatchling when a breeder makes it available for purchase, but while the animal remains on pinkies, this concept usually holds.
There's a reason why I recommend the first initial home to be a 6Qt latching Sterlite tub. I use pencil tubs to raise my babies in. They're almost always still small enough to fit in these tubs comfortably when they leave my facility. In the photos, I have included a baby that has had 10 total meals (not all unscented, so he's not leaving yet) in his tub, next to a 6Qt Sterlite (one of my Springtail cultures) and a Sharpie for comparison. He's most likely right around 9g. Notice how much larger the 6Qt is still! This is primarily why we don't recommend 10 Gallon tanks right away.
We know tubs don't work for everyone. We know and love that you want to see your animal. We want them to do well for you. For them to do well, they need to feel secure enough to eat. Once they're eating and growing, we enthusiastically encourage larger tank setups. All we want is to make your success as a Hognose keeper easier and more enjoyable.
]]><![CDATA[How to Package for Legal and Safe Shipping]]>Tue, 11 May 2021 02:53:33 GMThttps://www.ectothermempire.com/care-information/how-to-package-for-legal-and-safe-shipping
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It's important to keep in mind that some things like size of container for the animal, box for shipping, and heating elements are all variable depending on from where you are shipping to where you are shipping, and what exactly you are shipping. ALWAYS check origin and destination weather, as well as your provider's website for any possible holds or warnings. The goal is for the animal(s) to arrive safely and promptly, and if that means waiting is best, then that truly is the best decision you can make. As you will see in the walkthrough below, we ship through Reptiles2You and will highly recommend their services to anyone. The customer service is unmatched. Plug over, time for the fun.
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As you can see, the above photos reference building the box, taping the seams, and fitting the foam blocks inside. This may not be necessary for you to do if you have ordered a complete shipping kit from one of the many possible supply sites. If it is, you only need one of the larger foam squares for the time being, as this serves as the bottom insulation of the box. The four smaller pieces fit alongside the walls.
Use a ballpoint pen or screwdriver to ventilate the box. I aim for 4-6 holes that completely clear the foam insulation. These are incredibly important, especially when using a heating pack for temperature regulation, as a functional heating pack will consume oxygen to operate.
The Lacey Act label can be placed later, but I usually add it at this point, making sure the label is fully taped down so if it is exposed to the weather, it doesn't get ruined. All Lacey Act labels must include: 
  1. The common name of the species included
  2. The scientific name of the species included
  3. The quantity of said species 
Because we ship from Florida and our temperatures are so variable and often disjointed from the rest of the country, we find a small bit of solace in shipping with Cryopaks (Phase 22). I've found the section below from the Reptiles2You page quite efficient at explaining these products:

"These packs are not only high quality but also HIGH TECH!  They are designed to undergo "phase change" (begin freezing or melting) at 71.6°F (22°C).  If you think the temp inside your box might rise ABOVE this, use a frozen Phase 22 pack. It will absorb the heat energy in your box as the pack changes from solid to liquid, thereby keeping the contents of the box cooler.

If you are concerned that the temp inside your box might dip slightly BELOW 71.6°F (22°C), use an unfrozen pack.  It will release its heat energy inside your box as the pack tries to "phase change" from liquid to solid, thereby keeping the contents of the box slightly warmer.

HOWEVER - note that the warming properties of this process are NOT as powerful as true Shipping Warmers (Heat Packs)."
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It is also important to note that these can be deadly if punctured or leaking so it's always best to place the Cryopaks in a sealable plastic bag just in case.
Renarin, our yeti male, happily volunteered himself as an example of how to prepare your snake for travel. In most instances, we ship our animals in deli cups that have been pre-punched. Make sure to use a shipping substrate appropriate for your animal and the container involved. There should be enough to cushion the animal in the event that the box is shaken. Make sure the lid is fully secured and taped down. As you can see, Renarin is thrilled. 
We generally put the second Cryopak on top of the deli before we package with junkmail advertisements as a cushion (Yay free packaging material!), but as long as the deli cup fits pretty snugly inside, you're good to go. This cushion helps to reduce any potential harm to the snake in the case that the box is shaken in transit, but there is no need to fill every nook and cranny. Top with the final piece of foam to complete the insulation.
Make sure to seal all seams on the top of the box and affix the appropriate label. If you don't use label pouches, make sure to tape down the label fully in the event of weather or rough shipping. 

No one's schedule is entirely flexible, and sometimes you do what you must, but the later you drop off at an appropriate FedEx location, the better. The less time the animal is in these scary confines, the better.
]]><![CDATA[Basic First Aid Care for Your Hognose]]>Sat, 24 Apr 2021 18:07:30 GMThttps://www.ectothermempire.com/care-information/basic-first-aid-care-for-your-hognose
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It's incredibly important to remember that it's always best to consult and visit a licensed veterinarian for the appropriate care measures for your animal. We are not licensed and thus are unable to provide you with complete guidance for medical care, however, the following document can help you in the meantime as you wait to see a licensed professional. Do not substitute professional help with the following care.
The following are vital things you should keep on hand at all times in case of emergency:
  • Povidone-Iodine Solution (also known as: Betadine)
  • Pedialyte (Clear, unflavored)
  • Natural Chemistry Reptile Spray
  • Benebac Calcium Powder for Reptiles


For Burns, Minor Injuries & Minor Scale Rot
Soak the snake in a small deli cup, in lukewarm water mixed with povidone-iodine until it is the color of weak tea, for approximately 5-10 minutes. Clean enclosure, change substrate to paper towels and keep clean until the snake sheds. Repeat soaks once every three or four days as needed. Most burns, minor injuries and scale rot clear up within a single shed. For more severe cases, contact your veterinarian.

For Regurgitation
Regurgitation is the act where the snake has vomited up its prey after completely swallowing it. Many times this is caused by either a fear response (being moved too soon after eating), or by the prey item being too big, or by their temperatures being inadequate. Wait two weeks before offering prey again, making sure to size down the prey item (and address temperatures, if needed). Sprinkling the prey item with Benebac can help rebuild gut flora as well.

For Dehydration
Mix clear, unflavored pedialyte with lukewarm water at a 50/50 ratio. Soak the snake for 10-15 minutes, repeating every other day for a week. Do not feed a dehydrated snake; wait for the snake to rehydrate before feeding, and offer smaller-than-usual prey items, less frequently, for the first three meals (so if you feed every 5 days, wait 7). This gives the snake a chance to recover. You can also add Benebac sprinkles to their water to help rebuild their gut flora.

For Prolapse
In the event that your snake prolapses (characterized by their rectum protruding out the vent), you should mix granulated sugar with lukewarm water and soak the snake. Most of the time this fixes prolapses, but if it fails to rectify within an hour, make an emergency vet appointment; you will need to keep the prolapse moist, as it drying out is the biggest danger. Prolapse is caused by dehydration most of the time, so once it is treated, consider the steps for dehydration.
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For Overheating
Overheating can be extremely detrimental to any reptile. It often characterizes by neurological problems and often-times, those neurological problems are irreversible. Your best bet, if your snake has overheated, is to try and cool them off slowly by placing them in lukewarm water; make sure they have ready access to the water to drink, as they slowly cool down and rehydrate. Observe carefully afterwards. Permanent neurological damage is *extremely common* when a snake has overheated; this is why thermostats are absolutely essential in caring for your snake correctly. For severe overheating, take the animal to your vet.

For Poisoning (Exposure to Toxins, etc)
Hognoses are particularly sensitive to toxins, even among snakes, so it is advisable to avoid using any kind of chemicals around them. Should your snake become exposed to some kind of toxin, it will likely display neurological symptoms, and this can be permanent or fatal. The only thing you can do if this happens is to keep them hydrated and observe while withholding feeding - just in case of emergency. A vet trip might help to keep them hydrated, but oftentimes there is little veterinarians can do in these instances.

For Mites
Because hognoses can be very sensitive to toxins, it’s ill-advised to use any kind of major pesticide on their enclosure for treating mites. Sprays containing permethrin can be especially deleterious in causing severe neurological damage. Predatory mites are often-recommended for treating them, as is Natural Chemistry Reptile Relief. Others have had success with different mixes of pesticides - but because there is an element of risk, we recommend treating the enclosure with Reptile Relief instead. Soak the snake in lukewarm water, clean the enclosure, vacuum, repeat every week for a month until all mites are gone.

For Respiratory Infection
Respiratory infection is a serious and risky condition for any snake and should be handled by a qualified exotics veterinarian. Ask for a culture to be performed in order to determine the bacteria causing the infection and follow their recommendations.
]]><![CDATA[Western Hognose Prey, Size, and Frequency Guide]]>Wed, 06 Nov 2019 07:12:36 GMThttps://www.ectothermempire.com/care-information/western-hognose-prey-size-frequency-guide
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I. Mice Only Please. 
While the myth about rats being fattier than mice is usually the point most enthusiasts and breeders make to dissuade from rat usage as a prey item, it’s not known to be true. Nutrition charts occasionally show the opposite. While this may be the case, the nutrition content of mice and rats ARE arguably different. I’ve read of many accounts of breeders having higher mortality rates of their snakes when they were feeding on rats, rather than mice. This is not conclusive evidence, of course. But, because Western Hognose snakes can feed on varying sizes of mice throughout their entire lives and have been raised on them for generations, we at Ectotherm Empire, only ever suggest feeding mice. It is for this reason that the sizing guide we lay out below is only consistent with mice. 

II. Frozen/Thawed Only Please. 
Hognose snakes in general are known to be mildly venomous. This venom isn’t powerful, nor is it quick acting. They don’t constrict either. So, when a Hognose snake goes to consume live prey, it is done live. Listening to the squeaking cries of a mouse as it’s being swallowed alive is not pleasant, nor fair to the mouse itself. To further complicate matters, as the snake grows, you steadily increase the size of meal you feed it. The larger and older a mouse is, the more likely it will be able to defend itself. Live mice can pose a serious risk to a snake that does not kill before swallowing. Wounds will often be sustained (visible and not) and escape notice to later become infected. Reputable Western Hognose breeders make a point of establishing hatchling hognose on frozen/thawed mice prior to sale, unless stated otherwise. Verify what the snake is feeding on prior to purchase to save yourself a headache later. 

III. Sizing. Smaller tends to be better. 
A. While Hognose snakes do tend to have a faster metabolism than many other common captive snake species, they usually fair better with smaller, more frequent meals. It’s best to aim for a prey item no larger than the width of the head of the snake. If the meal leaves a small lump that lasts between 12-36 hours you’re perfectly in range. 
B. Too large of a prey item adds extra stress on the snake. Assuming it does successfully swallow a mouse that is too large it might then regurgitate. Regurgitation is nasty and can cause severe damage to your snake. 
1. If your hognose regurgitates, make sure the snake is well hydrated and wait to try to feed again for two weeks. If damage was done during regurgitation, you’ll want it to heal before the next meal or you may get stuck in a nasty cycle of regurgitation. 
2. Only feed a small meal to an animal that regurgitated. If the snake normally eats fuzzie mice, offer a pinkie. Etc. 
C. Our general sizing guide follows: 
1. 5g-7g hatchling = Pinkie head, mouse tail, fuzzie feet
i. Go with what looks most appropriate. Remember, smaller is better. 
2. 8g-14g hatchling = Day old pinkie (also known as “Red Hots”)
3. 15g-25g = Pinkie
4. 26g-40g = Peach Fuzzie
5. 40g-75g = Fuzzie
6. 75g-250g =Hopper
7. 250g+ = Weaned +
D. The sizing of these prey categories varies and at times can be pretty drastic, so this guide should be very flexible and based more on how your animal compares to the prey itself. 
E. Some snakes require smaller meals than what would be expected. Some prefer larger. Learning your Hognose and its preferences will help you understand what is best for them because sometimes, they really are just that unique. 

IV. Frequency
A. Cramming meals down your snake’s throat to get it up to a certain weight quickly is incredibly unhealthy for the animal. Slower growth is always better. At Ectotherm Empire we follow a less frequent feeding schedule. It’s proven to produce healthy weight animals and keep good feeding responses. It works for us. 
1. Hatchlings and Juvenile snakes = Every 4 or 5 days (we go 5)
2. Subadults, Adults = Every 6 or 7 days 
3. Breeding Females = Smaller meal than usual every 3 days 

V. Scenting—It may not be needed. Buying from a reputable breeder will minimize the likelihood that you will need to resort to scenting. Most breeders strive to establish their hatchlings on unscented mice prior to listing for sale. 
A. Too often do new keepers jump right to scenting to get a new animal to eat. We have always believed that husbandry should be addressed first. Please see the “So Your Western Hognose Isn’t Feeding?” section to troubleshoot your situation.
1. Starting a hognose off on scented may completely erase any work the breeder did to get that animal established on unscented mice. 
2. You may get the snake hooked on a scent that will be difficult to wean it off. 
3. Scenting may just be a band-aid that works for a time but may eventually fail anyway. 
B. Scents and Scenting advice can be found in the aforementioned “So Your Western Hognose Isn’t Feeding?” section. 

VI. What’s the white powder on the mouse? Is that freezer burn? Benebac? Huh? What’s that? 
A. To understand the use of Benebac, you must first understand: hognoses are primarily amphibian eaters in the wild and so even though they can be raised solely on a rodent diet without issue, Benebac is a probiotic that can help supplement what their captive rodent diet is lacking by helping to balance your snake’s natural gut flora. 
1. It has been known to increase appetite
2. Aides in digestive issues and improves fecal quality
3. Benebac is by no means required, but if you choose to supplement your hognose’s diet with it, simply dust the prey item lightly once every five or so feedings. 
4. Breeders have also been known to sprinkle Benebac in the water of problem feeders. Just make sure to change out the water more frequently.
5. A link may be found soon in the Recommended Equipment and Materials section.
]]><![CDATA[Brumation-- A Brief Guide on Cooling Your Western Hognose Snakes Down]]>Wed, 06 Nov 2019 03:28:48 GMThttps://www.ectothermempire.com/care-information/brumation-a-brief-guide-on-cooling-your-western-hognose-snakes-down
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Brumation is not a true hibernation during prolonged periods of low temperature, but rather a state of sluggish inactivity that allows reptiles to conserve energy until better weather arrives.

I. Preface
It is important to note that brumation is not always necessary to replicate in captivity. This state should not be an automatic answer for nonfeeding hognose. Please see “So Your Hognose Isn’t Feeding?” for a more in-depth troubleshooting. Brumation also isn’t necessary in order to successfully breed Western Hognose snakes. This guide exists because even though we have bred hognose without brumation, we at Ectotherm Empire still prefer to go through this period every winter anyway. Because so many people ask about this event, we figured it was best to briefly go over the process we go through. Just as with all our other guides, this one is not foolproof, and so it may not work for everyone. Our advice is just that... advice.
 
II. Preparation- It is best to enter this situation with a plan, rather than scrambling to figure it out last minute.
A. Have a location planned out. Whether it be a cold room, a wine cooler, or a custom-built cooler of sorts, make sure it can maintain at least relatively stable temperatures. Too much fluctuation can influence how your animals handle brumation. Too many higher temperature fluctuations could make your animal more active and potentially cause greater weight loss during this period of nonfeeding, for example. While in the wild the temperature can fluctuate drastically, these snakes are also fossorial and remain primarily in areas where the fluctuations are far more gradual (underground in burrows). We prefer the use of wine coolers. When searching for your wine cooler, keep in mind the need for reliability and accuracy. Check out the customer reviews and the item details so that you can get a model with minimal fluctuation. 
B. Cease all feeding activity at least two weeks prior to the date when you plan on decreasing temperatures. Preemptively dropping temperatures before allowing digestion to complete can potentially cause infections, regurgitation, or create a situation where material is left to rot in the digestive tract rather than being digested. 

III. Temperature Drops
A.    Place the hognose in a container equal to around the size of a hide you would provide them. The key is to maintain the feeling of security. There is no need for a large amount of space, as the snake will be largely inactive during this time period.
B.    For two weeks, we keep our Western Hognose at around 60°F (15.56°C) before dropping the temperatures further. The moment they enter the cooler is the start of our brumation.
C.    For another two months, we maintain 53°F (13.33°C). While temperatures can be dropped lower, we don’t personally feel a need to.
 
IV. Weekly Checks
A. Make sure to monitor the status of your hognose. Feel free to take them out of their containers while you check the bedding. If soiled, clean and replace.
B. Offer water. We do not keep water in with our snakes during this time. As everyone with a hognose knows, they like to dig and knock over water bowls. Snakes exposed to wet and cold conditions run a greater risk of developing respiratory infections, and so we’ve learned over time that it’s safest just to offer water weekly. You can always offer more frequently, if desired.
C. Make these checks short. The point is to make sure the animal is alive and as healthy as can be, given the situation, without disrupting the brumation process too much. 

V. Return to Normal!
A. Return your snakes to their normal enclosures and heat gradually. Do this by incrementally raising the temperature over a few days until you reach room temperature. After a day at room temperature, you can return your enclosures to their normal heat. 
B. Offer a small meal 3-5 days later. We usually offer sub-adults and males pinkies, while the larger females typically receive a fuzzy mouse instead of their normal adult or weaned.  Rebooting the digestive system can be a bit stressful and take a little longer to get going, so it’s always best to start back up slowly. 
]]><![CDATA[So Your Hognose Isn’t Feeding?]]>Wed, 30 Oct 2019 15:26:03 GMThttps://www.ectothermempire.com/care-information/so-your-hognose-isnt-feeding
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I. Things to Remember
A. All snakes, hognose especially, need a short period of time to settle into their new home. Be mindful of this and give them a full week of alone time after introducing them to their new home, BEFORE you try feeding them. While this time isn’t always necessary, it’s a safe procedure to follow. Barring a rescue/severely malnourished snake, a week longer off food will not starve them.
B. New skin time? Many snakes will refuse meals when they are not only shedding but, sometimes, when they are just about to enter the next shed cycle.
C. Verify with the breeder what your snake was eating at the time you purchased them. Live or f/t (frozen/thawed)? Scented? Scented with what?
D. Is the enclosure up to par? See below “Environment” section below.

II. Handling
A. How often are you handling your hognose? No new snake should be handled until they are feeding regularly. Any handling could continue to stress the animal out during the period when they should be settling into their new home.
B. Don’t attempt to feed every day. If your snake refuses a meal, give them a week before trying again. The more frequently you try, the more likely they are to refuse due to stress. If you change something, like downsizing to a smaller enclosure, give them a week in this new habitat before trying to feed again. This rule is standard for any changes made, especially changes made to a non-established animal's habitat.

III. Environment
A. Size. You may need to wait for that visually appealing tank. If you got your snake from a breeder, it was most likely kept in a bin in a rack system. You may want to keep your new little buddy in a 6-qt bin (shoebox-sized, [larger for larger snakes]) until he grows more. This may sound a tad small, but it makes them feel more secure, and the more secure your snake feels, the more readily they will feed. [6 Qt bin-- https://amzn.to/356iYLo ; 10 G Tank-- https://amzn.to/2OrBpmO ]
B. Heat is REQUIRED. Hognose snakes need a hotspot of at least 88°F (as high as 93°F) provided preferably by a thermostat-regulated under-tank heater (UTH). If their temps are not high enough, your snake may not eat, and if the snake does eat in a setup where temps are not high enough, they can die as they may not be able to digest their meal properly. [UTH-- https://amzn.to/2QwFw42 ; Thermostat--  https://amzn.to/2qsYk9o]
1. Heating is no joke. ALWAYS make sure your heat source is regulated by means of an outside thermostat. Heating mats with built-in thermostats still frequently reach temperatures greater than what they are set to, even when they are not supposed to. Please protect your animal and spend the extra bucks to assure their safety [ Thermostat--  https://amzn.to/2qsYk9o].
2. Monitor the surface temperature of your enclosure by means of a laser temp gun. Hognose will burrow and often lie against the heat source [Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun-- https://amzn.to/2O2bPWR​ ; Thermometer and Hygrometer with Humidity Gauge-- https://amzn.to/37i0B88 ].
C. Hides are important. Make sure to provide your snake with AT LEAST ONE hide over the hotspot. Additional hides are wonderful, but having one is necessary in most setups (usually not needed in rack systems). Sometimes a snake will forego staying on heat so that it may hide in a small space instead. Hides should be just big enough to curl up in. Large hides do not provide the sense of security they are seeking, so make sure you do not go too large. [Hides- Basic- https://amzn.to/2OndTHQ ; Cork- https://amzn.to/2r9qeqX ; Eggs- https://amzn.to/35cY39u ; Cave- https://amzn.to/2NZPYPN ]
D. Substrate can make the difference. Check what the breeder had your snake on. Some snakes won’t care about changes, others will go off feed over it. Tunneling substrates tend to work best, as they allow your hognose to have the added security of burrowing. This is a natural activity. We recommend Aspen shavings (no added scents or dyes) as they don’t seem to mold too quickly, and they generally retain tunnel structures. [Shredded Aspen-- https://amzn.to/2OsigBz ; Shaved Aspen-- https://amzn.to/35crCYF​ ]
E. Location matters. Try to make sure your enclosure is set up in an area that has less foot traffic and activity. Snakes “hear” by feeling vibrations through the ground as well as the air. The more activity in the immediate area, the more stressful it is for your snake. This can be especially important during their settling-in time period.

IV. Things to Try
A. Size does matter. Some snakes can be sensitive to the size of their prey. Move up prey sizes only after there is no noticeable lump left after consumption (lump should last 24-36 hours). Some snakes may need to be moved up in sizes even more slowly than others. Try to make the change as gradual as you can.
B. To move or not to move? Some hognose snakes require motion of their prey to provoke a feeding response, and others do not. Check with the breeder. Start by holding the f/t rodent beneath or just in front of their snout with a pair of tongs. Some may take after getting just a “whiff” of the rodent. If it seems like you may need to interest them a little more, try moving the mouse slowly away or to the side. You may try sitting on the ground and wiggling it a little bit. Every animal is different, but you’ll get the hang of it, and the snake’s interest will be VERY apparent if it’s there. They almost seem to “perk up”. [Feeding tongs-- https://amzn.to/37i3ndt ]
C. Movement can be scary. On occasion, your snake may be extra skittish. This may occur when you first receive and begin feeding your animal, until it becomes more used to you. Sometimes this may be during a shed cycle. We HIGHLY recommend purchasing a small section of PVC tubing from a home improvement store (usually in the plumbing section) so that you may be prepared for these times. Once you thaw out a mouse, place it in the tube and place the tube in the enclosure. You may try pointing your snake’s head towards the tube or let them find it on their own. This allows them to feed on their own without worry of ingesting substrate and simulates the somewhat natural event of finding a mouse pup in the wild (which would normally be in a burrow or tunnel system). The snake will feel more secure with this method and thus more likely to feed when they would otherwise be jumpy or scared. 
D. Scenting. Check with the breeder before attempting any of the scenting options below. If your hognose never required scenting, even as a hatchling, this may not be helpful to you. If your hognose is feeding without the need for scents or changes to their diet, it may not be worth adjusting their diet. (Scents are not listed in numerical order for any specific reason, though braining is best to try first.)
1. Braining. Take a pin or a needle and poke a small hole into the head of the pinkie mouse and remove it. Squeeze the head until a small amount of clear liquid forms where the needle was inserted.
2. Tuna in Water
3. Salmon (fresh and/or canned)
4. Vienna Sausage juice
5. Hard-boiled egg
6. Frog/toad scent. This may be purchased from some websites (www.reptilinks.com), or you may need to find a frog or toad to rub the mouse on. Obviously, do not do this with toxic frogs/toads. You may also be able to obtain frog legs, blend and freeze the liquid in ice cube trays for thawing a mouse simultaneously later on. It is highly suggested you freeze any wild-caught frogs/toads for a minimum of two weeks to reduce the chance of passing on parasites or diseases if you choose to go this route. Also, make sure to check your state/country regulations on harvesting wild species. There are many amphibians on protected lists worldwide.
7. Reptilinks. (www.reptilinks.com) This product, made from bull frog and often other sources (rabbit, etc), ground and packaged into small sausage links, sometimes convinces otherwise picky feeders to be little gluttons. There’s really no telling that a snake will respond favorably, but it’s an option. While these Reptilinks reportedly possess all required nutrients, we see them as an option to explore in order to get picky feeders eating again before transitioning to rodents.
8. Anchovies in Brine. Drain the fluid.
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V. When All Else Fails
A. Stubborn Butts
1. Unfortunately, some hognose snakes may take an exceptionally long time to settle in and find the groove for eating. It takes a lot longer than a few months for most to starve, and some adults have gone between 6-9 months. This is not incredibly common, but if you have everything correct, there’s not much else you can do. Just keep trying once a week, and give them space.
2. Make sure that you have been in contact with the breeder.
3. Try Hognose keeper boards for more suggestions. We recommend “Hognose Snake Keepers” on Facebook
B. Sometimes it really is the weather. I leave this for the end because if you keep your snake’s enclosure at optimum temperatures, they tend to ignore the fact that it is the season for brumation (winter, when naturally they enter a state of hibernation and suspended activity). This should never be the first condition you jump to, especially if the snake in question is a hatchling.
C. Mature Male? Mature males do have it built into their systems to skip meals more frequently, especially if there is a mature female around. This does not mean it will happen, but it does happen to some.
D. Could it be the feeders? If you buy your feeders from a local pet store, consider checking with them to see how they foster their mice. Some stores will use rats to foster mice because the rats can handle larger numbers. If this is the case, the mice may smell too much like rats and may be confusing your snake. You may have to find an alternate source for your feeders.
Not every Hognose snake is the same, but once you find out what your snake needs/likes, it tends to stay that way.

***NO MATTER WHAT, BE PATIENT.***

]]><![CDATA[So, You Want to Get a Western Hognose Snake? --An In-depth Careguide]]>Wed, 30 Oct 2019 15:06:09 GMThttps://www.ectothermempire.com/care-information/so-you-want-to-get-a-western-hognose-snake-an-in-depth-careguide
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I. Preface
The care guidelines proposed below are the results of consulting multiple sources, as well as personal experience with keeping and breeding these animals.  Nothing is guaranteed, and every animal truly is different. For this reason, many of us are insistent about purchasing direct from the breeder, instead of from pet stores. It’s not about the money, but instead the health and well-being of your animal. As a breeder, I know the animals I am raising. I know their quirks with feeding, their “personalities” as they grow (yes, they really are all different), and I know how they were raised. I can tell you if the snake you are buying has ever been on scented mice and what type of scent. This is important to remember: when in doubt, consult the breeder.
Keeping these wonderful animals is a privilege, and they are dependent on you. Their health and “happiness” is your responsibility, but if you put the time and effort in, it’s worth it. I love every doofy personality I work with. I hope you do too.

Best of luck!
-Erin Driscoll/Ectotherm Empire
 
II. About
The Western Hognose snake, also known as the Plains Hognose snake, is a species of small crepuscular (most active during the hours surrounding dusk and dawn) colubrid native to Central and Western North America from Alberta to Texas. These snakes naturally feed on small amphibians, reptiles, fish, and mammals. Sexually dimorphic (males and females exhibit physically distinct differences), Western Hognose snakes vary between 12” and 36”, with the males usually remaining in the smaller range.


III. Enclosure Size Requirements

While you may be more inclined to start off with a larger enclosure for your snake, you may want to consider the age and size of the animal you are acquiring. Hatchling Hognose snakes are small. Think the size of a #2 pencil or smaller. They’re often raised in small bins about the size of a pencil case (~12” x 5” x 3”) where they feel secure and feed readily. Throwing them into a new home that’s 10x larger is more likely to be disorienting for them. While we fully support tanks and terrariums for pets, considering their comfort is paramount to their success with you. Start slow and small. The largest recommended tub for a hatchling (consult breeder) is about the size of a shoebox (Sterlite makes some with locking lids—6qt., 14 1/8" x 7 3/4" x 4 7/8"). A 5 Gallon tank with a fitted lid/clips may work just as well if enough cover is provided. Don’t forget to add ventilation if you go the route of using a tub!


If your snake is feeding, shedding, and growing, you can always go up in size. Males may live happily and healthily in 15-20 Gallon enclosures, while Females usually require bigger enclosures at around 20-40 Gallons. But remember, just because that is the recommended adult enclosure, it doesn’t mean that it will work for a hatchling.

[6 Qt bin-- https://amzn.to/356iYLo ; 10 G Tank-- https://amzn.to/2OrBpmO ; Larger Tank- https://amzn.to/2QtGePo​  ]
 
IV. Hides/Cover

Hides are integral for tank-type enclosures (and sometimes even for animals in bins). Hognose snakes are fossorial. That means they spend most of their lives digging and being underground (hence the upturned rostral scale or “nose”). That is where they sleep at night and where they usually hunt for food. Why do I make a point of stating this? They are accustomed to and have a preference for enclosed spaces. They feel secure. Security means they can live and eat with less fear of being eaten themselves. A happy, secure snake is a snake that will feed regularly.

Two or more hides are recommended, depending on the size of your enclosure. You ideally want one hide over the “hot” side and one on the “cool” side (temperature requirements will be below). Hides function best when they are smaller, and the snake can touch multiple sides with its body at the same time (obviously, there is such a thing as too small; this judgment is up to you and the size of your animal). If you can only fit one hide in the enclosure, place it on the hot side. Sometimes a snake will go for security instead of appropriate temperature regulation. If they stay off the heat too much, they are more likely to skip feeding, too. (Humid hides will be covered later under “Humidity”.)  If you feel the need to use toilet paper or paper towel tubes, consider purchasing small sections of PVC tubing (can be found in Home Improvement stores in the plumbing sections) to use instead. PVC can be washed and sanitized, unlike cardboard tubes.

With tanks and terrariums, there’s usually a lot of open space. To reduce this, consider other cover options. Fake plants, decorations (fake skulls, etc) fill up this empty space and reduce the likelihood of your animal being too afraid of the big, wide world. Stay away from anything with chemicals, glitter, tape, and wires (like fake vines). If you’re not comfortable licking it yourself, don’t offer it to your animal. You may also consider painting the outside of or covering up a few sides of the tank with black posterboard or the false backgrounds you can find at pet stores.

[Hides- Basic- https://amzn.to/2OndTHQ ; Cork- https://amzn.to/2r9qeqX ; Eggs- https://amzn.to/35cY39u ; Cave- https://amzn.to/2NZPYPN ]
 
V. Substrate

Everyone has their own preference, but the most common substrate is Aspen. Aspen can come chipped (Sanichips), shredded, or shaved. Shredded and shaved aspen holds tunnels the best and is great in a nice, deep layer in tanks for these animals to dig through. Coco coir and topsoil are another common combination. Make sure your substrate is free of perfume, chemicals, and softwoods (Pine and Cedar). Softwoods contain phenols that can cause respiratory problems. Sand is also not recommended as it can cause impaction issues relatively easily. 

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VI. Heating

A. Belly/Back Heat via UTH

I primarily recommend under-tank heaters (UTHs) as a heat source because of my experience with them, but also because I am a fan of the temperature gradient you can achieve with a properly set up heat source. That is to say, the animal can choose where it always wants to be and at what temperature. The UTH should never be larger than one-half of the floor space of the tank or tub (preferably 1/3 the floor space). With UTHs, you want to aim for a cool side in the low 70°s (20s°C), like 73°F (22.8°C), and a hot side of 88°F (31.11°C) to 93°F (33.9°C) max.
Having a device to regulate your heat source at all times is a MUST. Unregulated heating mats/pads/tape can run 140°F+ (60°C+) in a matter of minutes. To hook up the thermostat, place a heat mat/pad/tape on the underside of the enclosure to one side or the other. Plug the mat/pad/tape into the thermostat and place the probe of the thermostat securely between the enclosure and the heating mat/pad/tape. Monitor the surface temperature of your enclosure by means of a laser temp gun. Hognose will burrow and often lie against the heat source. Adjust the settings of your thermostat based on what temperatures you are reading via the laser temp gun. Never set the enclosure on carpet or wood with a heating mat/pad/tape between the surfaces. Wire shelving can be placed underneath to give a little air and prevent any unnecessary risks.

[UTH-- https://amzn.to/3z4TWuy; Thermostat--  https://amzn.to/2qsYk9o]
[Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun-- https://amzn.to/2O2bPWR​ ]

B. Ambient

Ambient heat is frequently a go-to for experienced keepers and breeders alike. An ambient temperature between 82°F (27.8°C) and 84°F (28.9°C) is ideal with some flex towards the higher end if so desired. To achieve these higher ambient temps in a tank setup you may use a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) on a dimmer switch or a proportional thermostat. CHEs do not put out any light, are the cause of fewer burns, and are far less likely to dry out enclosures. While heat lamps with heat or red bulbs are often recommended by petstores and some breeders, I do not recommend them myself.  This doesn’t mean it cannot be done, but rather it’s a matter of preference. You can monitor ambient temperatures via digital thermometers inside the enclosure, like a low-cost Acurite.

**Not all heating sources will work for everyone. If your ambient household temperature generally runs cooler you may need to consider different or multiple heat sources. Please, as a reminder, having a device to regulate your heat source at all times is a MUST. The burns and resulting damage are too easily avoided by regulating your heat source. Don’t be lazy or cheap. It’s not worth it. Never tape probes or anything inside of an enclosure. Your animal can and will get stuck to the tape.**

[CHE-- https://amzn.to/2D08OzK ; CHE Clamp Lamp-- https://amzn.to/2KAIVed ; Proportional Thermostat-- https://amzn.to/2QzuD1o​ ]
[Thermometer and Hygrometer with Humidity Gauge-- https://amzn.to/37i0B88 ].
 
VII. Humidity

While these Hognose snakes are found in somewhat dry habitats, they are not found in deserts. Some humidity upwards of 30-40% is beneficial and aids in the shedding process.
If you find that your snake is having a rough time shedding, you may correct this by means of a humid box, or a small container with some wet paper towels, a little bit of sitting water around 82°F (27.8°C), the snake, and then some damp paper towels on top and the lid on the container. The paper towels give the snake a little bit of surface to rub against, while the water helps loosen up the stuck shed. Please do not try to remove the skin yourself. You can very well damage your snake doing so.

To be proactive and increase your humidity if you live in a more arid climate, you may cover part of the tank's screened top with aluminum foil; just be careful not to have tape within reach of your animal. Towels only pull moisture from an enclosure, and so they are not recommended to help with increasing humidity. You can also add a larger water bowl under or above the heat source (depending on what you are using), or a moist hide. A moist hide is a small hide or container that is mostly enclosed with some moist sphagnum moss inside. As long as there is only a small enough opening for the snake to enter, then the humidity will remain relatively high in the hide.
 
VIII. Lighting

Light cycles can make a major difference in the activity level of your animal. That’s not to say lighting is a necessary addition. Use your judgement. If the area your snake is kept in feels dim or dark to you, then you may want to consider additional lighting options; otherwise, ambient lighting is sufficient. There is a caveat to this. 
You see, in many experiments to replicate environmental conditions for animals (like corals, fish, etc) to stimulate reproductive behavior, proper light cycles are essential. As we all know, in many places across our planet, light cycles vary drastically with the season. It's what gives us and our wildlife a concept of time. 
Where am I going with this? Well, if you rely on ambient lighting and your hognose has gone off of food despite having adequate surface and ambient temperatures, they could still be sensing the season to brumate via the lighting in the house. Additional lighting for the enclosure may be necessary as you want to aim for a decent 12-14-hour light cycle. 
This is something that tends to slip through the cracks, but can still make an important difference in your hognose continuing to feed despite the natural inclination to brumate. And remember, UVB is a bonus, but try to stick with a lower percentage like 6% or 7%. They are not like bearded dragons in their UVB requirement and desert lifestyle. They do not need nearly as much. 
 
IX. Feeding

Most reputable breeders will only sell animals once they have been established on frozen/thawed unscented mice, but always be sure to ask the breeder what the hognose was feeding on prior to purchase.

Live feeding is not encouraged with these animals, as they do not constrict nor envenomate their prey enough to kill. It’s a dark process, and best avoided if possible, as it is cruel to the mouse and can be dangerous to your snake. Prey any larger than pinkie-sized has a much better ability to fight back and cause damage.

It is always recommended to feed in the enclosure whenever possible. There is no scientific evidence of cage-related aggression when it comes to feeding, and the added movement to and from the enclosure can often cause extra stress. If you find it necessary to drop feed (leave the prey in with the snake for it to eat when it is comfortable) and you fear ingestion of substrate, it is best to consider leaving the food on a small dish or inside a small section of PVC tube.

If your animal is not feeding, it is always best to rule out shed cycles and husbandry issues prior to resorting to scenting. Scenting is often unnecessary at the keeper level, but it’s best to verify with the breeder what and how the animal was feeding (whether it’s by drop feeding or from tongs/forceps) before it arrives.
Hognose snakes have a rough reputation for being picky feeders, but when husbandry is on point, this situation is a lot less common. Please consult the file “So Your Hognose Isn’t Feeding” for more information.

[Feeding tongs-- https://amzn.to/37i3ndt ]

 X. Brumation

Brumation functions as a sort of hibernation for Hognose snakes in the wild. While activity isn’t fully suspended, it’s greatly reduced. Many breeders will stimulate brumation in their animals in order to attempt to cycle them for more reliable breeding cycles. Brumation is not a necessary event to replicate, either for keepers or breeders. However, if you acquired a retired breeder or older animal, it is always best to ask the breeder if the animal has been brumated so that if the snake goes off of feed during that time of the year and no other husbandry has been changed (and the snake is not shedding), you may be aware that this may be a potential reason. Maintaining temperatures and long daylight light cycles will aid in preventing your snake from going off feed during this time of year. This is not a go-to reason for a Western Hognose to go off feed. Please consult the file “So Your Hognose Isn’t Feeding” for more information.

XI. Cohabitation

Hognose snakes are known for some cannibalistic behaviors, so cohabitation is not recommended. While you may hear that some people do it without a problem, it’s just not worth the risk. Just because nothing bad has happened yet doesn’t mean it won’t.
 
XII. Bites


While they are considered to be mildly venomous, Hognose snakes possess the Duvernoy’s gland, which secretes a toxic saliva used to inhibit their smaller prey items. Some people exhibit bite reactions similar to allergic reactions, but their venom is not considered to be medically significant to humans.
Even with clean hands and no rodent scent nearby, some Hognose have heightened feeding responses and will bite to "consume" without "provocation." The temperament of your Hognose has not changed. He is not any more or less aggressive/defensive than before. The easiest way to avoid this in the future is to watch his mannerisms closely. You can almost see a light flicker on in their eyes when they show increased interest in food. This sounds ridiculous, but it's true. I've seen it in every baby and every adult that has been presented with food. Watch them when handling. Hognose are doofy and clumsy. If you watch closely, you'll be able to avoid their bites.
If you get bitten, lift up on their "nose" (rostral scale). It's the upturned part. The rear fangs are curved and designed to hold something in the mouth. You won't damage them or the "nose", but you will be able to lift them away. Dabbing brown Listerine in the mouth or running them under water sometimes works, but physically lifting them away is the best option. When they bite, they're usually pretty committed. Releasing them ASAP is THE BEST way of preventing a reaction to the bite. The less time they're on you, the less likely you are to react to it. See the video below for an example of this procedure. 

Shovelnose Hogs- Safely Removing a Hognose Snake After a Feeding Response Bite
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