So, You Want to Get a Western Hognose Snake? --An In-depth Careguide

I. Preface
The care guidelines proposed below are the results of consulting multiple sources, as well as personal experience with keeping and breeding these animals.  Nothing is guaranteed, and every animal truly is different. For this reason, many of us are insistent about purchasing direct from the breeder, instead of from pet stores. It’s not about the money, but instead the health and well-being of your animal. As a breeder, I know the animals I am raising. I know their quirks with feeding, their “personalities” as they grow (yes, they really are all different), and I know how they were raised. I can tell you if the snake you are buying has ever been on scented mice and what type of scent. This is important to remember: when in doubt, consult the breeder.
Keeping these wonderful animals is a privilege, and they are dependent on you. Their health and “happiness” is your responsibility, but if you put the time and effort in, it’s worth it. I love every doofy personality I work with. I hope you do too.

Best of luck!
-Erin Driscoll/Ectotherm Empire
 
II. About
The Western Hognose snake, also known as the Plains Hognose snake, is a species of small crepuscular (most active during the hours surrounding dusk and dawn) colubrid native to Central and Western North America from Alberta to Texas. These snakes naturally feed on small amphibians, reptiles, fish, and mammals. Sexually dimorphic (males and females exhibit physically distinct differences), Western Hognose snakes vary between 12” and 36”, with the males usually remaining in the smaller range.


III. Enclosure Size Requirements

While you may be more inclined to start off with a larger enclosure for your snake, you may want to consider the age and size of the animal you are acquiring. Hatchling Hognose snakes are small. Think the size of a #2 pencil or smaller. They’re often raised in small bins about the size of a pencil case (~12” x 5” x 3”) where they feel secure and feed readily. Throwing them into a new home that’s 10x larger is more likely to be disorienting for them. While we fully support tanks and terrariums for pets, considering their comfort is paramount to their success with you. Start slow and small. The largest recommended tub for a hatchling (consult breeder) is about the size of a shoebox (Sterlite makes some with locking lids—6qt., 14 1/8" x 7 3/4" x 4 7/8"). A 5 Gallon tank with a fitted lid/clips may work just as well if enough cover is provided. Don’t forget to add ventilation if you go the route of using a tub!


If your snake is feeding, shedding, and growing, you can always go up in size. Males may live happily and healthily in 15-20 Gallon enclosures, while Females usually require bigger enclosures at around 20-40 Gallons. But remember, just because that is the recommended adult enclosure, it doesn’t mean that it will work for a hatchling.

[6 Qt bin-- https://amzn.to/356iYLo ; 10 G Tank-- https://amzn.to/2OrBpmO ; Larger Tank- https://amzn.to/2QtGePo​  ]
 
IV. Hides/Cover

Hides are integral for tank-type enclosures (and sometimes even for animals in bins). Hognose snakes are fossorial. That means they spend most of their lives digging and being underground (hence the upturned rostral scale or “nose”). That is where they sleep at night and where they usually hunt for food. Why do I make a point of stating this? They are accustomed to and have a preference for enclosed spaces. They feel secure. Security means they can live and eat with less fear of being eaten themselves. A happy, secure snake is a snake that will feed regularly.

Two or more hides are recommended, depending on the size of your enclosure. You ideally want one hide over the “hot” side and one on the “cool” side (temperature requirements will be below). Hides function best when they are smaller, and the snake can touch multiple sides with its body at the same time (obviously, there is such a thing as too small; this judgment is up to you and the size of your animal). If you can only fit one hide in the enclosure, place it on the hot side. Sometimes a snake will go for security instead of appropriate temperature regulation. If they stay off the heat too much, they are more likely to skip feeding, too. (Humid hides will be covered later under “Humidity”.)  If you feel the need to use toilet paper or paper towel tubes, consider purchasing small sections of PVC tubing (can be found in Home Improvement stores in the plumbing sections) to use instead. PVC can be washed and sanitized, unlike cardboard tubes.

With tanks and terrariums, there’s usually a lot of open space. To reduce this, consider other cover options. Fake plants, decorations (fake skulls, etc) fill up this empty space and reduce the likelihood of your animal being too afraid of the big, wide world. Stay away from anything with chemicals, glitter, tape, and wires (like fake vines). If you’re not comfortable licking it yourself, don’t offer it to your animal. You may also consider painting the outside of or covering up a few sides of the tank with black posterboard or the false backgrounds you can find at pet stores.

[Hides- Basic- https://amzn.to/2OndTHQ ; Cork- https://amzn.to/2r9qeqX ; Eggs- https://amzn.to/35cY39u ; Cave- https://amzn.to/2NZPYPN ]
 
V. Substrate

Everyone has their own preference, but the most common substrate is Aspen. Aspen can come chipped (Sanichips), shredded, or shaved. Shredded and shaved aspen holds tunnels the best and is great in a nice, deep layer in tanks for these animals to dig through. Coco coir and topsoil are another common combination. Make sure your substrate is free of perfume, chemicals, and softwoods (Pine and Cedar). Softwoods contain phenols that can cause respiratory problems. Sand is also not recommended as it can cause impaction issues relatively easily. 

[Shredded Aspen-- https://amzn.to/2OsigBz ; Shaved Aspen-- https://amzn.to/35crCYF​ ]

VI. Heating

A. Belly/Back Heat via UTH

I primarily recommend under-tank heaters (UTHs) as a heat source because of my experience with them, but also because I am a fan of the temperature gradient you can achieve with a properly set up heat source. That is to say, the animal can choose where it always wants to be and at what temperature. The UTH should never be larger than one-half of the floor space of the tank or tub (preferably 1/3 the floor space). With UTHs, you want to aim for a cool side in the low 70°s (20s°C), like 73°F (22.8°C), and a hot side of 88°F (31.11°C) to 93°F (33.9°C) max.
Having a device to regulate your heat source at all times is a MUST. Unregulated heating mats/pads/tape can run 140°F+ (60°C+) in a matter of minutes. To hook up the thermostat, place a heat mat/pad/tape on the underside of the enclosure to one side or the other. Plug the mat/pad/tape into the thermostat and place the probe of the thermostat securely between the enclosure and the heating mat/pad/tape. Monitor the surface temperature of your enclosure by means of a laser temp gun. Hognose will burrow and often lie against the heat source. Adjust the settings of your thermostat based on what temperatures you are reading via the laser temp gun. Never set the enclosure on carpet or wood with a heating mat/pad/tape between the surfaces. Wire shelving can be placed underneath to give a little air and prevent any unnecessary risks.

[UTH-- https://amzn.to/3z4TWuy; Thermostat--  https://amzn.to/2qsYk9o]
[Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun-- https://amzn.to/2O2bPWR​ ]

B. Ambient

Ambient heat is frequently a go-to for experienced keepers and breeders alike. An ambient temperature between 82°F (27.8°C) and 84°F (28.9°C) is ideal with some flex towards the higher end if so desired. To achieve these higher ambient temps in a tank setup you may use a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) on a dimmer switch or a proportional thermostat. CHEs do not put out any light, are the cause of fewer burns, and are far less likely to dry out enclosures. While heat lamps with heat or red bulbs are often recommended by petstores and some breeders, I do not recommend them myself.  This doesn’t mean it cannot be done, but rather it’s a matter of preference. You can monitor ambient temperatures via digital thermometers inside the enclosure, like a low-cost Acurite.

**Not all heating sources will work for everyone. If your ambient household temperature generally runs cooler you may need to consider different or multiple heat sources. Please, as a reminder, having a device to regulate your heat source at all times is a MUST. The burns and resulting damage are too easily avoided by regulating your heat source. Don’t be lazy or cheap. It’s not worth it. Never tape probes or anything inside of an enclosure. Your animal can and will get stuck to the tape.**

[CHE-- https://amzn.to/2D08OzK ; CHE Clamp Lamp-- https://amzn.to/2KAIVed ; Proportional Thermostat-- https://amzn.to/2QzuD1o​ ]
[Thermometer and Hygrometer with Humidity Gauge-- https://amzn.to/37i0B88 ].
 
VII. Humidity

While these Hognose snakes are found in somewhat dry habitats, they are not found in deserts. Some humidity upwards of 30-40% is beneficial and aids in the shedding process.
If you find that your snake is having a rough time shedding, you may correct this by means of a humid box, or a small container with some wet paper towels, a little bit of sitting water around 82°F (27.8°C), the snake, and then some damp paper towels on top and the lid on the container. The paper towels give the snake a little bit of surface to rub against, while the water helps loosen up the stuck shed. Please do not try to remove the skin yourself. You can very well damage your snake doing so.

To be proactive and increase your humidity if you live in a more arid climate, you may cover part of the tank's screened top with aluminum foil; just be careful not to have tape within reach of your animal. Towels only pull moisture from an enclosure, and so they are not recommended to help with increasing humidity. You can also add a larger water bowl under or above the heat source (depending on what you are using), or a moist hide. A moist hide is a small hide or container that is mostly enclosed with some moist sphagnum moss inside. As long as there is only a small enough opening for the snake to enter, then the humidity will remain relatively high in the hide.
 
VIII. Lighting

Light cycles can make a major difference in the activity level of your animal. That’s not to say lighting is a necessary addition. Use your judgement. If the area your snake is kept in feels dim or dark to you, then you may want to consider additional lighting options; otherwise, ambient lighting is sufficient. There is a caveat to this. 
You see, in many experiments to replicate environmental conditions for animals (like corals, fish, etc) to stimulate reproductive behavior, proper light cycles are essential. As we all know, in many places across our planet, light cycles vary drastically with the season. It's what gives us and our wildlife a concept of time. 
Where am I going with this? Well, if you rely on ambient lighting and your hognose has gone off of food despite having adequate surface and ambient temperatures, they could still be sensing the season to brumate via the lighting in the house. Additional lighting for the enclosure may be necessary as you want to aim for a decent 12-14-hour light cycle. 
This is something that tends to slip through the cracks, but can still make an important difference in your hognose continuing to feed despite the natural inclination to brumate. And remember, UVB is a bonus, but try to stick with a lower percentage like 6% or 7%. They are not like bearded dragons in their UVB requirement and desert lifestyle. They do not need nearly as much. 
 
IX. Feeding

Most reputable breeders will only sell animals once they have been established on frozen/thawed unscented mice, but always be sure to ask the breeder what the hognose was feeding on prior to purchase.

Live feeding is not encouraged with these animals, as they do not constrict nor envenomate their prey enough to kill. It’s a dark process, and best avoided if possible, as it is cruel to the mouse and can be dangerous to your snake. Prey any larger than pinkie-sized has a much better ability to fight back and cause damage.

It is always recommended to feed in the enclosure whenever possible. There is no scientific evidence of cage-related aggression when it comes to feeding, and the added movement to and from the enclosure can often cause extra stress. If you find it necessary to drop feed (leave the prey in with the snake for it to eat when it is comfortable) and you fear ingestion of substrate, it is best to consider leaving the food on a small dish or inside a small section of PVC tube.

If your animal is not feeding, it is always best to rule out shed cycles and husbandry issues prior to resorting to scenting. Scenting is often unnecessary at the keeper level, but it’s best to verify with the breeder what and how the animal was feeding (whether it’s by drop feeding or from tongs/forceps) before it arrives.
Hognose snakes have a rough reputation for being picky feeders, but when husbandry is on point, this situation is a lot less common. Please consult the file “So Your Hognose Isn’t Feeding” for more information.

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 X. Brumation

Brumation functions as a sort of hibernation for Hognose snakes in the wild. While activity isn’t fully suspended, it’s greatly reduced. Many breeders will stimulate brumation in their animals in order to attempt to cycle them for more reliable breeding cycles. Brumation is not a necessary event to replicate, either for keepers or breeders. However, if you acquired a retired breeder or older animal, it is always best to ask the breeder if the animal has been brumated so that if the snake goes off of feed during that time of the year and no other husbandry has been changed (and the snake is not shedding), you may be aware that this may be a potential reason. Maintaining temperatures and long daylight light cycles will aid in preventing your snake from going off feed during this time of year. This is not a go-to reason for a Western Hognose to go off feed. Please consult the file “So Your Hognose Isn’t Feeding” for more information.

XI. Cohabitation

Hognose snakes are known for some cannibalistic behaviors, so cohabitation is not recommended. While you may hear that some people do it without a problem, it’s just not worth the risk. Just because nothing bad has happened yet doesn’t mean it won’t.
 
XII. Bites


While they are considered to be mildly venomous, Hognose snakes possess the Duvernoy’s gland, which secretes a toxic saliva used to inhibit their smaller prey items. Some people exhibit bite reactions similar to allergic reactions, but their venom is not considered to be medically significant to humans.
Even with clean hands and no rodent scent nearby, some Hognose have heightened feeding responses and will bite to "consume" without "provocation." The temperament of your Hognose has not changed. He is not any more or less aggressive/defensive than before. The easiest way to avoid this in the future is to watch his mannerisms closely. You can almost see a light flicker on in their eyes when they show increased interest in food. This sounds ridiculous, but it's true. I've seen it in every baby and every adult that has been presented with food. Watch them when handling. Hognose are doofy and clumsy. If you watch closely, you'll be able to avoid their bites.
If you get bitten, lift up on their "nose" (rostral scale). It's the upturned part. The rear fangs are curved and designed to hold something in the mouth. You won't damage them or the "nose", but you will be able to lift them away. Dabbing brown Listerine in the mouth or running them under water sometimes works, but physically lifting them away is the best option. When they bite, they're usually pretty committed. Releasing them ASAP is THE BEST way of preventing a reaction to the bite. The less time they're on you, the less likely you are to react to it. See the video below for an example of this procedure. 

Shovelnose Hogs- Safely Removing a Hognose Snake After a Feeding Response Bite